Ahr Valley – Hidden Wine Country in Germany

Ahr Valley travel guide

Overview

Nested within Rhineland Palatinate and North Rhine-Westphalia, Ahr Valley envelopes meandering River Ahr, crafting picturesque settings. Its crowning jewel is a 35 kilometer red wine trail, which treats you to many captivating panoramas. Despite reigning as Germany’s largest red wine producing region, Ahr Valley has managed to retain its status as a hidden gem among international tourists. Ahr Valley is one of the most impressive destinations I have been to so far and I cannot wait to share this beautiful place to you. This tour guide will provide you with comprehensive insights for this hill country wine tours.

When is the best time to visit

We went there in summer and had a great time. But the most popular time is during early fall(from October to mid November) when leaves transition into vibrant shade of yellow and red, and numerous festivals are in full swing.

How to get there

Previously, trains provide access to the region. However, in 2021, a flood ravaged the area and extensively damaged numerous train tracks. So now the best way to go there is by car. The journey took us 3 and a half hours to get there from Amsterdam, making it an excellent choice for weekend road trip getaway.

Where to stay

We strongly recommend to staying in the Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler area. The medieval town Ahrweiler boasts the enduring charm of its original city wall and features charming cobblestone pathways adorned with historical buildings. The town center offers an array of restaurants, bars, and dessert shops for visitors to indulge in. In addition, Ahrweiler is positioned in the heart of the entire red wine trail which makes it a perfect spot to start or end a hike.

We had an enjoyable stay at Hotel Rodderhof. While the room may have a slightly dated aesthetic, it remains clean and the staff are friendly. The hotel boasts an adorable outdoor garden, perfect for relaxing or enjoying meals. Moreover, the hotel is dog friendly, extending a warm welcome to our four legged companion.

Ahrweiler with original city wall

Where to hike

The red wine hiking trail leads from Altenahr to Bad Bodendorf and is divided into several stages. It winds through steeply terraced vineyard and connects several small wine villages. The hike is mostly flat and easy. Some part are even paved, so you can push a stroller if you hike with a baby. The most beautiful part is from Altenahr to Ahrweiler.

Option 1 - Rotweinwanderweg

If you are ambitious, you can hike the entire trail which takes about 18 hours. You can search Rotweinwanderweg on All Trails for a map. But if you don’t have enough time, you can choose to do the part from Altenahr to Ahrweiler which is the most beautiful and rewarding part. 

Option 2 - A Few Shorter Hikes

Schonste Weinsicht Ahr view point
steep vineyard

If you are not up for the entire hike but still crave captivating view. Here are a few shorter hikes we did with our baby. 

1. We started from the view point Schonste Weinsicht Ahr and walked towards east for about 2.5km (1.5 miles) until Stuck Hött view point. It’s all paved. The view point offers a magnificent panoramic vista of village Dernau and Ahr river. 

2. Saffenburg castle ruin hike. The starting point is next to Restaurant Bahnsteig 1 which is now temporarily closed. On the way up to the castle, you will find a wine vending machine and benches and tables. Here, you can buy a bottle of wine to relish the opportunity to unwind while taking in the picturesque view. 

3. We started from Michaelishof Gmbg winery, went south on the trail for about 200 meters and we stopped at the wine vending machine. But if you have time, you can continue to the view point Aussichtspunkt Ahrtal. While our trek on this path was brief, the panoramic view of steep terraced vineyard was truly breathtaking. And we wish we had more time to continue our hike. 

Where to taste wine

The most famous red wines in Ahr valley are Spätburgunde (pinot noir),  Portugieser, Dornfelder, and Frühburgunder. But if you prefer white wine, they also produce excellent blanc de noir. Actually if you like smooth, fruity taste of white wines, I found their blanc de noir is the best white wine I have ever tried. 

There are numerous wineries in the area for you to explore, I will highlight 3 wineries and one special spot I personally visited, each leaving me a lasting impression. 

Situated in the quiet neighborhood of Mayschoß village, Weingut Monchbergerhof provides a large selection of wines. Notably, they offer 0.1L tasting size, ideal for those seeking to sample a broader range without overindulging. Weingut Monchbergerhof had the best wines we tried during our visit in Ahr valley. In fact, it was so good, we bought a couple bottles, even though we had to carry them for miles on our return  journey. 

Weignut Kloster Marienthal terrace view

Weignut Kloster Marienthal is a winery restaurant and doesn’t offer dedicated wine tastings. But they do feature a selection of wines available by the glass and you also have the option to purchase bottles from their shop. The winery boasts what I believe to be the most picturesque terrace in Ahr Valley. Situated within the ruins of a monastery, it offers breathtaking view of vineyards and remnants of the historical structure. Visiting this winery is absolutely a must when exploring Ahr valley.

Wine Vending Machine

drinking at wine vending machine

It was such a unique and exciting experience to discover a wine vending machine on a hiking trail in the middle of nowhere. During my hike, I found 2 such  machines. One of them is on the hiking trail up to Saffenburg castle. The other one is about 200 meters south from Michaelishof Gmbg winery. If you search “WEINAUTOMAT” on google map, you should be able to locate them.

Tips: Make sure to bing your ID, you need to swipe your ID to be able to buy a bottle from the machine. We used our Netherlands resident card which worked.

Michaelishof Gmbg​

Located at the bottom of Ahr Valley and surrounded with steep vineyard terrace, Michaelishof Gmbg stands as a winery restaurant that presents an array  of wine tasting options accompanied by local dishes. Its terrace boasts a magnificent panoramic vista of the valley complemented by the captivating presence of the Saffenburg castle ruin.

Nearby attractions

There are some other attractions within one hour drive from Ahr Valley, which worth exploring.  

Eltz Castle

Eltz castle
back of Eltz castle

Eltz Castle has a history of 900 years and is considered as the most beautiful castle in Europe or “fairy tale in stone”. 

You can buy tickets for a guided tour inside, but you need to bring cash, they don’t accept card. It’s a very popular attraction, so make sure to get there early before 11am, otherwise you may have to wait in line for hours to get in. 

Go down the stairs to the back of the castle, you will find yourself in a serene hiking trail adorned with streams and wild followers. It’s a perfect relaxing spot to appreciate the castle from a different perspective or a playful heaven for young children. 

Cochem

Guava at Cochem
Cochem town

Cochem, a medieval town boasts a breathtaking landscape. It rests gracefully along the banks of  the Mosel River, guarded by the Cochem Castle on one side and embraced by rolling emerald hills on the other. Cochem offers an enchanting, almost fairy tale like atmosphere. 

You can tour the remarkable Cochem Castle, embark on a hike to the Pinnerkreuz Viewpoint for stunning vistas, and  leisurely wander along the riverside and savor wine tastings within the old town. With plenty of activities to choose from, you will find endless ways to relish the charm of this picturesque village. 

It worth mentioning that we enjoyed a satisfying lunch at Weinhexenkeller, despite its modest 3.1 star review on google. Our experience was truly delightful, with reasonably priced and delicious food, accompanied by friendly staff. What truly set it apart, however, was the restaurant’s terrace that provides a captivating panoramic view of the castle, the river and the town. 

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I am a mom, a software engineer and a passionate traveler. I am originally from China 🇨🇳, lived in Seattle, United States 🇺🇸 for 10 years and now I am living in Amsterdam, Netherlands 🇳🇱.

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